Background: I posted a few threads a few months back asking about itineraries I should do in Brazil. The only thing I really wanted to do that I didn't have enough time for on this trip (nor energy really, was not trying to trek) was Chapada Diamantina, although I had already booked a flight to Salvador to get there just in case. I spent 3 nights in Rio, 3 nights in Salvador, 5 nights in Jericoacoara, 1 night in Atins, 2 nights in Barreirinhas and one final night in Rio.
The purpose of this report is to post some information regarding Jericoacoara and Lencois Maranhenses, less so Salvador, since I was barely able to find any information about them on the various travel subreddits, yet Cappadocia etc get posted 10 times a day.
Rio: Had some amazing burgers, weather was kind of cold (for Brazil), Lapa has awesome nightlife and bars, didn't get much sleep while there. Views from Christ the Redeemer were phenomenal, Niteroi was like the Malibu of the area and Morro Dois Irmaos also had incredible views and an exhilarating ride up to the trail through the favela on the back of a motorbike Latin America style (no gear). Enough for Rio, not hard to find information about it.
Salvador: Salvador reminded me of Wroclaw, Poland mixed with Krakow. The colorful old town of Pelourinho had lots of little shops and museums and there was constantly music being performed as well as capoeira. Outside of the old town there were crazy markets along the main street jam packed with people and vendors. Acaraje and Moqueca are supposed to be the best in Bahia. The weather was mostly overcast with some rain and sun mixed in. Carnival in Salvador is supposed to be the best. Every night there was some kind of party in Pelourinho, the first night I crashed early, the second night there was an awesome electronic music party out behind a restaurant in the courtyard with over a hundred people, the next night there was a Samba party right across from the hostel (Acai Hostel, highly recommend).
Jericoacoara: To get to Jeri, I had to fly from Salvador to Fortaleza, and from the airport in Fortaleza take a 5 hour bus ride to Jijoca de Jericoacoara, where we took an hour long ride in the national park/on the beach to the town ($22.25). The town's streets are all made up of sand, so you can walk barefoot everywhere. The tourists to Jeri were mostly Brazilians, though I did meet a few from elsewhere. I had originally planned on staying three nights, but ended up staying five, mostly because transportation around that part of Brazil is scarce. Nonetheless, Jericoacoara was a blast and the beach lived up to the hype, as well as the other beaches nearby. Walking around the park yielded some beautiful views. There were parties at night and Serra Mar was a nice venue for Forro (one of Brazil's dances along with Samba and Funk(y)). Restaurants were a bit expensive and I did a tour with about 11 others from my hostel (not through it though), we drove around the park from 9-4 and it was 65 real. The options from Jeri going towards Maranhao (for Lencois Maranhenses) were to take a bus for 100 real to Parnaiba or Barra Grande early on monday/wednesday/friday(I think friday too) morning, and then take the tuesday/thursday/saturday bus from Parnaiba/Barra Grande to Barreirinhas. The whole journey by bus was supposed to be around 36 hours, with the stop overnight. The other option was carpooling, 200-250 real to Barreirinhas from what I heard, but there were no cars monday afternoon, or tuesday, so I had to carpool with two others on wednesday at 8:30 to Cabure, a short boat ride away from Atins, which was close to Lencois Maranhenses. We paid 266 real each for the car (didn't really have any other options, was flying back to Rio from Sao Luis on saturday morning), and split the 100 real boat three ways to Cabure. We arrived in Atins around 4:30 and stayed at Pousada Rita for 50 real a night. I read on wikitravel that it was 30 but barely anyone speaks English in this area and I didn't really care to haggle over a few dollars. I watched sunset on the beach, ate moqueca and then went to sleep.
Lencois Maranhenses: The morning after arriving in Atins, we arranged a tour for 70 real into the park, though I think you can do it for 50. We rode there in the back of 4x4, through some rugged terrain for about 40 minutes until the driver dropped us off at the edge of the park at around 9:30. The spot was okay, not the best views of the park from there, however, it was only the 3 of us that came from Jeri, and a family of 5. There was one other group of less than 10 when we arrived at the dunes, but they disappeared shortly after. This is the less touristy way of seeing the park, though apparently Santo Amaro is less so and has better dunes/lagoons (didn't have enough time for that town). We bathed and explored the area on our own, the guide just chilled around the truck I think.
At 12:30 we headed back and at 2 the three of us from Jeri took an hour boat ride to Barreirinhas. More like 2:30, time gets a bit weird in that area and nobody speaks english. The boat ride cost 50 real, or at least we paid that. Arriving in Barreirinhas was like arriving in a city even though it's a small town because it was the first place I'd been in a week with paved roads. I stayed at Casa del Professor and that evening booked a tour through Malibu Tours for Lagoa Azul in the morning and Lagoa Bonita for sunset. Someone had said they paid 90 a tour from another company, this company said 80/90 for Azul/Bonita and I got them to take 150 for both.
The next morning the each tour truck (different tours) picked everyone up at least 45 minutes late from the hostel. We had about 2 hours around Lagoa Azul, mostly guided. This part wasn't very memorable in hindsight. We returned to a restaurant for lunch, and then I was picked up by another employees truck of the same company to head off to Bonita. The views of the park in the Bonita area were UNREAL. We were guided by the tour guide and stopped at each lagoon for about 30 minutes, though he let me run off to explore nearby regions. The sunset was obscured by the clouds, wasn't too cloudy though. I was worried before I arrived in the area that the weather was going to be shit, rainy season ends in June (the rain is responsible for the lagoons and the water is so nice to swim in, the lagoons dry up by like November). The weather in the north of Brazil was near perfect while I was there June 1 - 9. There are also tour companies that offer plane rides over the park and quad bike tours that cost 350 though you can do them for 300. Bonita was easily the highlight of my time in the park, even if there were more people (not that many, maybe 100 or so, but the park is huge).
The next day I had a flight out of Sao Luis at 1pm and there was a bus option or shuttle transfer. I was skeptical of the bus because the owner of the hostel said it was prone to breaking down, and the shuttle left at 8:30, cutting it too close to the flight time. Someone I met on the tour was able to get the tour guide to ask a friend who drove a van to Sao Luis to pick me up from the hostel at 5 or 9, so I chose 5am. It arrived at 5:30 and cost 60 real. I paid another 10 to get to the historic district of Sao Luis since the van arrived at the city limits at 10am. There wasn't much to do at this time and the city was preparing for a festival that happens in the coming weeks.
Summary: Brazil is incredible, and has a ton of stuff to do. Easily one of my favorite places as well as underrated on reddit and from word of mouth. Brazilian people were some of the nicest I've met on my travels, whether they were cariocas, baians, tourists, locals, etc. Tinder was ridiculously easy for a gringo. Ubers were dirt cheap. The women are so hot, and the culture is very sexual. The speed at which dating/hooking up works in Brazil would have social justice warriors screaming rape in the states. Things are not as cheap as I expected and the food is hit and miss. Some is amazing, some is just eh. The fruit juices are amazing. I experienced no violence and had no negative experiences, though Copacabana was pretty shady at night. Portuguese and dance skills would be desirable if you visit. I think I spent about $1350 total, international airfare and hotel in Rio were paid for.
Places I want to visit next: Chapada Diamantina, Ilha Grande and Florianopolis.
Pictures:
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